"...Newport climbing wraithlike from its dreaming breakwater. Arkham is there, with its moss-grown gambrel roofs and the rocky rolling meadows behind it; and antediluvian Kingsport hoary with stacked chimneys and deserted quays and overhanging gables, and the marvel of high cliffs and the milky-misted ocean with tolling buoys beyond.
"Cool vales in Concord, cobbled lands in Portsmouth, twilight bends of rustic New Hampshire roads where giant elms half hide white farmhouse walls and creaking well-sweeps. Gloucester's salt wharves and Truro's windy willows. Vistas of distant steepled towns and hills beyond hills along the North Shore, hushed stony slopes and low ivied cottages in the lee of huge boulders in Rhode Island's back country."-
The Dream Quest of Unknown KadathAfter leaving the Shunned House, we got in the Haunted Police Car and drove southwest to Newport, a town perhaps older than Providence, one surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean. The drive was slow and meandering and as we proceeded the surroundings changed from the blue collar homes of Providence, getting larger and often older, and more ornamental. We actually saw gambereled roofs. In Newport itself, there were entire neighbourhoods where every single house predated Canadian Confederation - all occupied and in good repair. In some places, there were rows of houses older than America.
I described the drive down as "cripplingly picturesque."
We were in Newport for two reasons. First, to visit the "mystery mill," a sort ruined stone tower that, at the very least, is more than 400 years old. No one is sure who built the tower, or when, but the best guess is that is served as a mill around 1650. However, there is apparently evidence to suggest it may have been constructed a century or more earlier, or even in Pre-Columbian times by wandering Vikings.
( Newport at Sunset )After peering at the stone tower for a bit, we wandered around Newport on foot, trying to reach the ocean. This was fairly easy, but we could not find any beach - only docks. So, we gunned up the Haunted Police Car once more, and pointed ourselves southward.
We soon discovered Ocean Drive, a scenic stretch of road sided on either side by the famous Newport Mansions, a series of 19th century and early 20th homes built by the barons of American industry. I took no pictures, but we were both suitably awed.
As the stars began to appear we found a stretch of clear, rocky beach, and disembarked.
( In these realms where the Pole Star shines high )We returned northward to Providence and paused for supper at the Newport Creamery, a local chain. After resting in the hotel for an hour or two, we hitched up our resolve and headed back to downtown Providence to see what night-time diversions the city had to offer.
First of all, we discovered that the city core is much livelier at night. During the afternoon, the downtown had been nearly empty. At night, we had trouble finding parking, and knots of people were everywhere. One wonders if it is a city.... of VAMPIRES!
In any case, the highlight of the evening's jaunt was our visit to the Haven Brothers Diner. This establishment is significant for two reasons. First, it is the oldest diner in the world - founded in 1888. Second, it is a diner in the original sense of the word, which is to say that it is a portable structure. It has been parking in the same spot since 1892, though of course the original vehicle was a horsedrawn cart. Today, it's a trailer hitched to a truck.
I
loved it.
After downing cheese dogs and coffee at Haven Brothers, Alex and I walked along the river, looking at things.
( Lovecraft has no good quotes about diners )We got back to the hotel around midnight... and came home on Sunday. The drive home was fun, but I didn't take any photos.
This concludes The Great Lovecraftian Pilgramage of 2007